Types of Outside Faucet Problems We Fix

Leaking or Dripping Hose Bib

An outdoor faucet that drips from the spout when shut off has worn internal stem packing or a deteriorated washer. This is one of the most common outside faucet issues and is repairable without replacing the whole unit on newer faucets in good condition. On older faucets — particularly non-frost-free models that have been in place for 20 or more years — replacement is usually the more practical and cost-effective choice.

A faucet that leaks around the handle stem when in use has worn packing behind the handle. We replace the stem packing or the stem assembly to stop this leak.

Outside Faucet Won’t Shut Off Fully

A hose bib that won’t close completely — leaving a steady trickle even when turned as far as it will go — has a worn or deteriorated seat washer or a damaged valve seat. Sometimes the seat can be dressed and a new washer installed. When the seat is too damaged to repair, the faucet needs replacement. This isn’t a repair to leave — a faucet that won’t shut off is running water continuously on your bill and can create ice issues in winter.

Freeze Damage — Burst or Cracked Faucet

North Texas gets hard freezes every few winters, and outdoor faucets are among the most vulnerable fixtures when temperatures drop below 20°F. A standard non-frost-free hose bib holds water in the faucet body and the pipe just inside the wall — when that water freezes and expands, it cracks the faucet body or splits the pipe behind it.

Freeze damage often isn’t obvious until the faucet is used again in spring — you turn it on and water sprays from the body, the stem, or the pipe inside the wall rather than from the spout. We replace the damaged faucet and inspect the pipe section behind it to make sure the interior pipe wasn’t affected as well.

If your home has non-frost-free hose bibs, upgrading to frost-free models during a repair visit is worth considering. Frost-free faucets have a long stem that positions the water shut-off point well inside the heated wall space, where the water in the pipe drains out when the faucet is closed — eliminating the freeze risk entirely on properly installed units.

Leaking at the Wall

If you see water staining or dampness on the exterior wall around the faucet, or wet drywall on the interior side behind where the faucet is mounted, the faucet body may be leaking at the wall connection rather than at the spout. This can be a failed escutcheon seal, a cracked faucet body, or a loose connection at the supply pipe. We identify the source and repair or replace as needed — wall leaks on exterior faucets should be addressed promptly since water getting into the wall cavity causes mold and structural damage.

Low Flow or No Water from Outside Faucet

An outdoor faucet with significantly reduced flow or no water at all when fully open has one of a few causes — a shut-off valve inside the house that isn’t fully open, a debris-clogged aerator or screen, a partially failed internal component, or a supply line issue. We diagnose the actual cause rather than just replacing the faucet.

Outside Hydrant Repair

Yard hydrants — the free-standing water spigots found on larger properties, rural acreage, and some older Burleson homes — are designed differently from a standard hose bib. They connect to a water supply buried below the frost line and have a self-draining mechanism when the handle is closed to prevent freezing.

Common hydrant problems include:

• Hydrant won’t shut off — The buried plunger rod connecting the handle to the underground valve has worn, corroded, or disconnected.
• Water leaking at the head — The packing around the operating rod has deteriorated and needs replacement.
• No water flow — The underground valve may be stuck closed, or the supply line has an issue.
• Hydrant drains slowly or won’t drain — The drain port at the bottom of the standpipe is blocked, typically by soil or debris, preventing proper drainage and creating freeze risk.

Hydrant repairs sometimes require digging to access the underground connection. We’ll assess the situation and tell you honestly what the repair involves before starting.

Frost-Free vs Standard Hose Bibs — What’s the Difference

If you’re not sure what type of outdoor faucet your home has, here’s the quick way to tell: a frost-free faucet has a noticeably longer handle stem — typically 6 to 12 inches — compared to a standard hose bib. When you close a frost-free faucet, the water shuts off inside the wall where the pipe is in heated space, and any water remaining in the stem drains out through the spout. This is why the spout drips briefly after closing — that’s the stem draining, not a leak.

One important note on frost-free faucets: they only drain correctly if the faucet slopes slightly downward from the wall to the spout. If a frost-free faucet was installed level or pitching inward, the stem won’t drain and it will freeze just like a standard faucet. If your frost-free faucet froze anyway, the installation pitch is worth checking when we make the repair.

Also — leaving a garden hose connected to a frost-free faucet during a freeze defeats the drain-back function entirely. The hose traps water in the stem, which then freezes. Disconnect hoses before any hard freeze regardless of what type of faucet you have.

Frequently Asked Questions — Outside Faucet Repair

My outside faucet froze last winter — how do I know if it’s damaged?

Turn on the faucet fully and watch where the water comes from. If water sprays from the faucet body, around the stem, or you can hear water running inside the wall, the faucet body or the pipe behind it was cracked by the freeze. If it seems to work normally but you’re not sure, we can inspect it. Freeze damage that isn’t obvious sometimes shows up as a slow interior wall leak that only becomes apparent after multiple uses.

Should I repair or replace my outside faucet?

For a frost-free faucet that is relatively new and has a repairable issue like stem packing wear, repair makes sense. For older non-frost-free faucets with any significant wear or damage, replacement with a frost-free model is usually the smarter investment — you fix the current problem and eliminate the freeze risk going forward. We’ll tell you honestly which situation you’re in.

Do you need to open the wall to replace an outside faucet?

Sometimes yes, sometimes no — it depends on the installation. Many outside faucets can be replaced by disconnecting and unscrewing the old faucet from outside and threading in the new one. If the pipe connection is soldered, corroded, or in a location that doesn’t allow access from outside, interior wall access may be needed. We’ll assess the situation and tell you what’s involved before starting.

My faucet drips a few seconds after I shut it off — is that a problem?

If it’s a frost-free faucet, a brief drip after closing is normal — that’s the stem draining. It should stop within a few seconds. If it drips continuously after closing, the internal washer is worn and needs replacement.

Schedule Your Outside Faucet Repair

Whether it’s a leaking hose bib, freeze damage from last winter, or a faucet that won’t shut off — give us a call. Most outside faucet repairs are completed same day.

📞 Call Dependable Plumbing at (817) 447-2654
Free estimates · Same-day service available · Serving Burleson and south DFW since 1985